Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

Product Information

Once all connected up, place the cap over the terminals on the fan and ensure the switch is installed correctly in it’s pattress box. As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom.

Next, the fan should then be connected using 3 core and earth cable (depending on the model the earth may not be required), with the extra cable being used as the switch-live (SL). As we have stated above, if an extractor fan is being installed from scratch then this will need to be done by a qualified Part P registered electrician. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits. It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom. The supply for such an appliance can in most cases be taken from most existing circuits, both lighting and sockets, providing a fused connection unit (FCU) is present at the start of the installation and appropriately fused to protect the sub-circuit cabling and accessories.If however an axial fan (one through the wall) is being installed this will need to go on an outside external wall. If you get the fused isolator from a reputable outlet it will have the minimum 3mm contact distance so don't worry about that. If installing an inline fan, this will need to be positioned and screwed down to a flat and level surface, ideally between the point that air is being extracted and then being expelled. From the FCU, the 3-pole isolator switch is connected up using a suitable length of cable that’s stripped at both ends. This briefly covers the 2 main different types of extractor but for a full and detailed run down, see our types of extractor fan project here.

However, this is normally when it’s being installed in an upstairs bathroom and there is decent access to the top of the ceiling from the loft. On removing the old fan I found that there were there were three cables - Yellow, Brown and Blue coming from the ceiling, and they went into a connector block which connected to four fixed cables on the fan. If you haven’t created any chases, ensure that any cables are clipped up correctly, pipework is secure and the fan unit fixed securely to a flat surface. This would be ideal as there is no natural lighting in the room anyway but I am not quite sure how to go about this. Once the cable has been run, both ends are stripped and then the switch side is connected up with the black to the permanent live (add brown tape/sleeve to indicate it as live), brown to switched live, grey to neutral (add some blue tape/sleeving) and earth to earth point.When connecting up the pipework make sure that you first tape the pipe to the fan body using aluminium tape and then also screw up a large jubilee clip around the pipe. The instuctions also state that I have to fit a double pole fused spur having a contct seperation of at least 3mm in all poles and fitted with a 3 amp fuse. If you are unable or don’t want the fan wired off of the lighting circuit and want independent control then an independent switch will need to be installed. A larger diameter hole (stated in the instructions) is drilled in the ceiling above the shower, bath etc.