Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 V2/ 3 Max/ 3 S1, Satisfy Near-end Printing and High-temperature Printing

Product Information

The metal dual-gear upgrade requires setting the E-steps due to the smaller radius of the toothed gear. This is what the filament looks like after the idler tension has been adjusted correctly. Much less filament deformation Choose the Ender 3V2 without a CR Touch and get through the setup so I can hope there is the ability to tell the Sonic Pad (or Klipper) that I have the Sprite Pro and CR Touch

Sprite Extruder Pro AND CR-Touch [Tutorial] Just bought the Sprite Extruder Pro AND CR-Touch

The double-tooth structure of the dual-gear extruder does not damage the filaments but makes the feeding more reliable and stable. The only options for an Ender 3V2 is with or with and CR touch, but NOTHING for a Sprite Hot end, and this is where it starts to go wrong. The setup progresses and allows me to manually set the Z Offset and then Tram the bed at the 4 corners, all good up to here. BUT the next screen is ABL and after homing the printhead moves OUTSIDE the print bed (at the front) due to the difference between the standard Ender 3V2 Hotend and location of the CR Touch and the Sprite Pro Hotend and it’s location to the CR touch. The Print head that move down and “hits” the bed freezing the setup process. The simpler design means they are typically less expensive and result in a lower total printer cost. Plug in the SD card and turn the printer on. This will trigger the board firmware update and the firmware will be flashed. It takes around 30 seconds. IdeaMaker Klipper Profile for Ender 3 S1I will tell you values to live by, assuming you have an Ender 3v2. If you don't, buy yourself a Calliper, a ruler, or leave me alone. We'll start by copying what he does and searching for X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS. If you're anything like me, this will do: The gears have sharp teeth that sink into the filament when turning meaning that you need to make sure the tensioning screw for the idler is not too tight.

Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK

I’m nearly up and running, but I keep getting the same error. “Recv: // MCU ‘mcu’ shutdown: Not a valid ADC pin” I copied and used your config file. I do have the F4 board, but have found the proper help to get that part figured out. Any help would be appreciated! I will use the Sprite Pro Extruder for a longer period of time, and I will update the article if I find other issues. But right now, I think it’s a great direct drive extruder upgrade for any Creality printer. Remove the PTFE coupler from the top of the hot end using the larger side of the wrench. Make sure you have unloaded any filament before this step. You may need to heat the hot end to remove the tubing. Learn to program Marlin (if that’s what you use). There are plenty of Youtube videos to get you started. They are good, but not all of their recommendations worked for me, so you will have to do trial by error. If you use Octoprint or a terminal program, learn some basic Marlin commands in the Terminal tab and you will save a lot of time. For instance, the extruder requires a very high e-step value which takes a long time to dial in. With a Marlin command, you can change it with a few keystrokes. If you plan on trying higher temperature filaments such as nylon, you will also need to program Marlin to get higher temps.Creality designed the extruder so that it collides with the right side of your x-axis roller support when you home the printer. You will need to reverse and shorten the upper right roller bolt on the Sprite x-axis mount or program a little less x-axis size in Marlin. I chose the programming option and made my x-axis 230mm instead of the standard 235mm. I have found I could spare the 5mm. As you can see, the corners are much better defined, the top layers are cleaner and the print time was shorter. AWIN, Sovendus, Meta-Pixel, Google Ads, Microsoft Advertising, creativecdn.com (RTBHouse), Ads Defender See if there is anyone with a printer.cfg file that matches my setup (or someone that can tell me how to go about creating one and where I can get the info from) You are wasting money if you can’t do some Marlin programming, otherwise it’s best features are unusable

Sprite Pro and CR Touch Sonic Pad to Ender 3v2 with Sprite Pro and CR Touch

Klipperis an open-source firmware for your 3D printer that combines the power of a Raspberry Piand your printer mainboard for better printer control. By doing this, you are able to run your printer at higher speeds with better precision and control. Why Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1? As you can see, the Nema17 pancake stepper motor is customized for the Sprite extruder with slots for installing the bearing that keeps the gear aligned. In the images below you can see that the filament path and gears are not correctly aligned, but this is caused by the pressure made by the spring which holds the idler. When the extruder is coupled with the motor, everything lines up correctly. Creality Ender 3, Creality Ender 3 Pro, Creality Ender 3 V2, Creality Ender 3 Max, Creality CR-10 Smart Pro, Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro After upgrading to a dual-gear metal extruder or a direct drive extruder, you’ll need to set the E-steps on your printer to match the extruder. The new setting will depend on the specific extruder model you are updating to, and you should always start with the setting in the reference material that is included. Generally, the settings should be close to the below for each extruder type: First, let’s talk about the hotend part. In the case of the Sprite Pro Extruder, the heat break is made from titanium and it’s all metal. The heatsink is made from aluminum and it’s cooled by the tiny radial fan on the side. Honestly, this design is pretty smart and I found that it works quite well during operation. Thermal shots are available below, to also judge the thermal efficiency of this solution.if you have the dual-gear metal extruder, we do recommend replacing the arm with the updated version to avoid wear issues, but do not feel that changing to a different extruder type is worthwhile. The dual-drive gear extruder will not damage the filament but makes the feeding more reliable and stable. Then i have set this to 97% and tried from 80%-100% everthing in 2% steps with Top Surface Solid Fill Flowrate. Some minor effects can be seen but all not good. Then i have done again tests with Top Solid Fill Extrusion width Percentage. Same here. Adding a sprite extruder will make crtouch’s leveling point abnormal, which is not within the scope of the design. The default Ender 3v2 with crtouch firmware for the sonic pad is used without installing a Sprite extruder.